Showing posts with label best electric fireplace heater insert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label best electric fireplace heater insert. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Which is more efficient? Using a gas fireplace or an electric space heater?




John


I have a home built in 2004, masonry fireplace with metal flue and a Home Depot gas log set. My question, is whether it is cheaper to run the fireplace to add a little warmth to the den or to use a ceramic type electric space heater. From what I've read, a fireplace is very inefficient. However, gas is more efficient and cheaper than electricity. You do get a fan, oscillation, etc out of the space heater, but gas is a thermally more efficient than electricity and much cheaper. I also have a solar voltaic system that covers about 50% of my normal electricity usage, so that may also skew the real equation of relative costs.


Answer
It is more efficient to use your electric space heater unless you had a fireplace insert. After reading your question it sounds like you just have a flue and not an insert. If you only have a flue and no insert is present, then most of the heat generated by the fireplace logs is going up and out the flue. Thus, it is more efficient to run the electric space heater. In addition, you have a solar voltaic system to increase the efficiency of your electric heater. However, if you had a fireplace insert and not just a flue, then it would be more efficient to burn gas rather than run the heater.

-Miller's One Hour Heating & Air Conditioning

Can you put an electric fireplace insert in anywhere?




Meagan P


Im looking at getting an electric fireplace entertainment center for the living room since our base board electric heater is Broken for some reason and its going to cost $1500+ for an electrician to come fix it and wire it correctly or something, we just don't have that kind of money for a house we don't own. anyways, i cant seem to find any good looking fireplace entertainment centers that i like that are for a reasonable price, so i was wondering since we have a great entertainment center now, and it has 2 drawers in the center that could be taken out can I just put an electric insert in there? or is there certain Materials that the entertainment center needs to be made of or Clarence problems and such? i cant seem to find info on this kind of stuff anywhere.


Answer
Anywhere there's a plug. Be prepared for your heating bill. That is simply a space heater. They are not made to heat a room.




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Friday, December 20, 2013

What is better and more economical than a wood burning fireplace? gas, electric or pellet?

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geewiz


We currently have a wood burning fireplace. We would like to get an insert. Any suggestions as to electric or gas or pellet? What are the pros or cons? Cost? Installer? DIY?


Answer
If you choose pellet, use good quality pellets or you'll pay more in the long run on having the unit cleaned than you saved buying cheap pellets. Quiet and beautiful flames. The big bags of pellets are a con.

If you can do gas, I'd go with that. As long as the unit is outdoors. I knew someone who bought a $2000 gas heater and once it was installed, he realized it stunk the whole house up with a kerosene-like smell. Ugh And it was noisy too.

How should I heat my home for this winter?




nimkiw


We don't have a gas hook-up, so we are looking at either kerosene or electrical. We also have no duct work in place. Should we go with a couple of the lasko small heaters, or should we go with a large quartz or something and then fan it throughout the house? We need something that will be cheap and efficient.


Answer
Kerosene, number one diesel, is smelly and rather expensive. Also kerosene heaters burn up oxygen and produce carbon monoxide. People do use them to take the edge off a large room with a large airspace. But I wouldn't want to live with them used to heat a house and then breath those fumes. You are supposed to leave a window open for fresh air in any space you use them. I would only use coleman fuel since it is highly purified and doesn't contain the additives for automotive use. But it is grossly expensive. Yes you can find cheaper kerosene at a pump but you shouldn't be around the fumes if used in a heater.

Electric is your fair choice. In the past electric was the most expensive. Now it seems with oil at $80 a barrel it is cheaper. That is a change from they way it was almost my whole life.

I suggest you consider an oil filled electric radiator. They heat slower but since you will be heating for long periods it provides a more even heat. One cost with the small heaters with a fan is that people tend to intermittently overheat a room or space costing more. I would use a combination of the two in your case.

Also they draw a bit of power when heating so make sure any outlets you use are in good shape. You might want to consider replacing the outlets if they are older. A 1200 watt unit is 10 amps on what is normally a 15 amp circuit so it is stressing your electrical. And an outlet that doesn't grab a plug well may arc and smoke a plug with heavy use.

Be safe. Remember there is some fire danger with the little fan forced heaters should they get near anything flammable. The oil filled don't get as hot.

It sounds like you need to address a longer term solution but it won't be cheap. A through-the-wall heat pump has a high initial cost but is the cheapest heat. One drawback is that they can't produce much heat with the pump under 45 degrees ambient, outside, temps. Many have electric strip heat for when the outside temp is too low.

How about a wood stove or fireplace insert with a fan?

Good Luck




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Friday, November 29, 2013

How do you heat your home and keep Heating prices low?

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olivia6799


With natural gas prices rocketing sky high - what are you doing to keep your heating bills at a minimal? Any unique ideas to heat up your place without giving up your arm this coming winter?

Currently we have an air-forced duct system in place. I really hate it, the heat does not distribute evenly throughout the house and despite of having a so-called humidifier installed
into the system, we still have excessive dry air.

I really liked those old water based - radiator heaters, it minimized static and really kept homes warm -- whatever happen to those?

Anyway, give me ideas on how to maintain a nice warm house this winter, I do not want to make this a major project -- keep it nice and simple.

I also have two non-working fireplaces in this old house, I don't have the slightest idea how to use / maintain one. Currently there are sealed off, and if I get it going ... will it even be safe? will it be worth it ? Please share your ideas with me -- I am desperate! ~thanks



Answer
The house I own had no heating system other than a blower box on the fireplace when I bought it. Several thousand dollars later I had central heat with a heat pump in place. I thought all would be great, until I got my first heating bill. If I use that thing I can expect heating bills to range from $300-600 a month in the winter.

SOOOoo I have become something of an obsessive about tricks and alternative heating sources.

1. You would not believe how much outside air leaks into your house. Go around when it's cold and windy and put your hand over door cracks, keyholes in the knobs, window sills, even along the floor by the wall. If you can't plaster over the leak, tape it. All that cold air coming in just drives up your costs.

2. A $4 flannel blanket from Walmart works wonders when hung over doorways that are not regularly used. I also hang them over windows as a cheap alternative to heavy drapery.

3. Those fireplaces? Forget 'em. They'll suck out more heat than they put in. The only time a fireplace really does good is if you are either right in front of it, or you have a blower insert that forces the heat out into the house instead of sending it all up the chimney.

4. I can't say enough about those $1.25 draft dodgers that you stick on the base of your doors. Just peel the backing and stick them on. Any hardware store or Walmart will have them.

5. Insulation. When is the last time you checked it in your attic? You lose a LOT of heat through the ceiling, so a few hundred bucks worth of blown in insulation can save you thousands over a few years. You need at least 6 inches of insulation up there (I put in a foot!), so if it's all compressed down to a few inches, it's time to resupply.

Look around, you'll find one of those radiators. I finally realized the heat pump was very efficient until the outside temp dropped below 45, then the meter nearly spun off it's base. So, I hooked up a free standing, vent free, propane fueled fireplace that will make the place toasty warm when the temp drops into the 30s or below.

Avoid the temptation to get little electric space heaters. The energy they use up to make that little bit of heat is NOT worth it.

Which is more efficient? Using a gas fireplace or an electric space heater?




John


I have a home built in 2004, masonry fireplace with metal flue and a Home Depot gas log set. My question, is whether it is cheaper to run the fireplace to add a little warmth to the den or to use a ceramic type electric space heater. From what I've read, a fireplace is very inefficient. However, gas is more efficient and cheaper than electricity. You do get a fan, oscillation, etc out of the space heater, but gas is a thermally more efficient than electricity and much cheaper. I also have a solar voltaic system that covers about 50% of my normal electricity usage, so that may also skew the real equation of relative costs.


Answer
It is more efficient to use your electric space heater unless you had a fireplace insert. After reading your question it sounds like you just have a flue and not an insert. If you only have a flue and no insert is present, then most of the heat generated by the fireplace logs is going up and out the flue. Thus, it is more efficient to run the electric space heater. In addition, you have a solar voltaic system to increase the efficiency of your electric heater. However, if you had a fireplace insert and not just a flue, then it would be more efficient to burn gas rather than run the heater.

-Miller's One Hour Heating & Air Conditioning




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Friday, October 11, 2013

Is it better to keep the door open to a wood burning fire place or close the door.?

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Flow


My argument is to keep the door open, we are only trying to keep our living room warm. I get the concept that keep the door close heats the metal and warms throughout, but I live in new Zealand and if you don't know heating is non existent. anyways the goals is to heat only our leaving room which is blocked off with blankets. Some of us say keep the door open as it gives direct heat into the room, and other argue differently. Let me know IF you ACTUALLY know what is right! Pretty sure door open is best.
To add to the comment below, by heating the metal i mean that the fireplace is metal, and the assumption is by keeping the heat in, the metal chiminey going up through the house preserves the heat as well as the actual fireplace. My flatmates argue that this preserves heat, but in contrast I say the costs (aka amount of wood required to heat entire chimney) do not meet the benefits. It is a 7 bedroom uninsulated house (small for 7 bedrooms) therefore the goal is to at least keep the living room warm. We have looked up multiple things, and some say keeping the door open burns through wood much quicker, but we all have agreed there is more direct heat comes out when the door is open. So long story short which 1.) Creates more heat into the room once fire is going? 2) what is more efficient? and 3) what is better for our Cause which is that we want our living room warmest possible as it is winter here!



Answer
YIKES! It depends 100% on the age and design of the fireplace and how it was installed. There are essentially three types of solid-fuel fireplaces. Many more, but they may be grouped into three basic types:

a) The conventional wood-burning decorative fireplace installed in centrally heated houses to be used, but not to be depended upon for heat (first link below): This fireplace is designed to direct most of the heat and all of the smoke up the chimney. The smoke-shelf is designed to increase the draw and prevent any smoke at all from getting into the house. Further, the more efficiently it works the more air it takes *from inside the house* to function. At best, fireplaces of this design are energy neutral. Many are considerably energy negative. If you have a fireplace of this design and want it to heat **leave the doors CLOSED**. Only in that way will you get the benefit of radiated heat from the fire itself.

b) Solid-fuel burning heating fireplaces (may burn wood, bituminous coal, peat, lignite and in some cases anthracite - second link): These fireplaces are designed to exhaust fumes but direct heat into the room. As you can see, the firebox is slightly extended into the room, there is a ventilated back and an iron firebox to keep the fuel elevated. There is no smoke-shelf and ventilation is strictly by induction (draft). Starting a fire in these beasts is a trick, and if allowed go cold one must start over from scratch, but once going they are relatively efficient, about 30% of the heat generated comes into the room. These fireplaces were not normally installed with doors, but if you have one, leave them OPEN.

c) Modern sealed fireplaces or inserts (third and fourth links): These are pretty much late 20th century developments and may be anything from a purpose-built sealed heating fireplace that draws combustion air from the exterior and often have electric booster fans on them. These can be up to 60% efficient, some very recent units claim up to 80%, and some hybrids have catalytic converters on them for even more efficiency. Also not cheap. These are typically installed as complete units. Doors closed in these cases.

We have a Type C in our summer house that will keep 900 square feet quite toasty even at 20F on the outside. We have three Type As at our main house, and we run them for decorative reasons only as if all three are going (family occasions) the house will get quite cool quite quickly from the draw.

Last Bit of Lecture:

One perceives heat in three ways:

Conduction - touch something hot. This is pretty obvious.
Convection - stand in a stream of warm air and get warm. This is generally how central heat is perceived.
Radiation - stand in front of something very hot and feel the heat coming off it. This is primarily via infra-red radiation and how many passive electric heaters operate. And this is what you are feeling standing in front of a hot fire. BUT- BUT! the flue is still drawing smoke *AND* warm air from the rest of the house -meaning that you are warming yourself yet cooling the house. Local benefit, general negative.

Hope this helps.

I have split level home and room tempeture is so different.....?




jpae0018


there's about 10 degrees difference down stair and upstair. my mother stays down stair and me and my husband stays upstair... espcially in summer time it's never cool enough upstair and frezzing cold down stair.... what can I do?
have celing fans in everyroom upstair... and closed the vent down stair...



Answer
I had this exact same problem. I have a downstairs fireplace with a wood stove insert I use for additional heating in the winter, to lessen my electric bill. I found the way to even things out was to use a whole house circulating fan. I installed it mainly for distributing heat in the winter but found it works for cool air in the summer. Mine was added after the fact and sits in the cold air return and is in addition to the fan in the bottom of my electric furnace. It runs all the time when I have to use heat, which is about 6-7 months out of the year. The heater vents upstairs are all only 20% to 40% open. The vents downstairs are fully open so most of the air flow is directed downstairs. The whole house fan equalizes the distribution of heat throughout the house by moving the air around all of the time instead of just when the furnace is on like the built-in fan does. It took me a while to balance out the air flow In a single level house, a couple of ceiling fans would do the same thing. In the summer, the only thing I change is to open the upstairs windows and the chimney dampers. You would be amazed how much air flow there is in an open chimney without a fire from a hot living room in the summer, especially after sundown when it gets cooler outside. It isn't perfect. There still is a difference between upstairs and downstairs, but it is much less than it was before I had the fan installed.




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Thursday, June 27, 2013

Would it pay to put a propane fireplace insert in my home?

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Jacob


My home is 4 yrs old. It is heated by oil (hot water), I have an existing wood burning fireplace. Would it be economical to put in a propane fireplace log insert, too compliment the oil heat? The house seems to heat really hard. The house is 1800 sq ft. We seem to fill up with oil (half tanks 130 gallons) every month in the winter. Any help is appreciated.


Answer
Propane is not a whole lot cheaper than oil. You may want to get an electric radiant heat heater instead. They make wood burning inserts that you can install in your fireplace. Some models have a heat chamber with a fan to force the heat into the room. Most wood burning fireplaces (without the insert) just shoot most of the heat up the chimney. With an insert you can better regulate the fire for a slower burn. You use less wood and stop the heat that is in the room from going up the chimney. Between the insert and a radiant heater used in the rooms your are in most, you should cut down on your oil consumption.
Good luck, stay warm and be safe !

What is better and more economical than a wood burning fireplace? gas, electric or pellet?




geewiz


We currently have a wood burning fireplace. We would like to get an insert. Any suggestions as to electric or gas or pellet? What are the pros or cons? Cost? Installer? DIY?


Answer
If you choose pellet, use good quality pellets or you'll pay more in the long run on having the unit cleaned than you saved buying cheap pellets. Quiet and beautiful flames. The big bags of pellets are a con.

If you can do gas, I'd go with that. As long as the unit is outdoors. I knew someone who bought a $2000 gas heater and once it was installed, he realized it stunk the whole house up with a kerosene-like smell. Ugh And it was noisy too.




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