What is the most energy effecient portable heating fan?

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me

I want one that heats well and will lower my energy bill

Answer
nergy efficient home heating - "Space Heater Reviews" by Sam Streubel

The portable space heaters reviewed in this article are electric radiant or convection space heaters, cost less than $100, and offer a maximum heat output of 1500 watts.

All of the following space heater suggestions are rated an average minimum of 4 out of 5 stars by consumer reviewers.

Radiant heaters work like the sun by warming people and objects. Radiant heaters without fans are not designed to heat an entire room, but excel at providing instant heat for one or two people.

Two examples of radiant heaters without fans are radiant heat panels and parabolic heaters.

Radiant heat panels are constructed with the heating element embedded in the panel. By virtue of their simplicity, they are safe, reliable and maintenance free.

The Presto Parabolic Heat Dish is a cost effective choice for workshops or garages when you want to heat just you and not the entire building.

The Cozy Legs radiant heat panel, with only 100 watts of heat output is by no means a whole room heater, but performs admirably when installed under a desk or hung on the wall to warm a bird cage.

The next four categories of radiant heaters are equipped with fans to provide whole room heat.
Quartz Infrared Heaters Quartz infrared heaters can cost as little as $50, or as much as $450 for the SunTwin or EdenPure heaters. The SunTwin brand features copper heat exchangers for consistent, non drying heat; a child and pet friendly cool to the touch exterior, fan assisted heat for larger spaces, and a lifetime washable filter.

The less expensive Marvin 1500 watt quartz heater uses replaceable quartz tubes in front of a reflector and a fan to project whole room heat. Quartz heating elements reduce positive ions in the air and consume very little oxygen. Reviews say this heater works extremely well. The security locked grill swings out for easy quartz tube replacement. Replacement tubes are readily available for $9.99 each.
Ceramic Heaters Ceramic heaters come in a wide variety of models: fixed, tower, oscillating and pedestal. One of the most popular and inexpensive of these is the Honeywell HZ-315. Weighing in at only 3.3 pounds, it's the mighty mite of space heaters capable of quickly heating small to mid-sized rooms.

A specialized version of the ceramic heater is the remote controlled Soleus Air MS-20A. The cool to the touch exterior, even heat, and wall mounting feature make it a favorite for nurseries.
Electric Fireplaces What are they? Expensive space heaters or a piece of furniture that also keeps you warm? Definitely a piece of furniture. If you went crazy and spent $2200 on an electric fireplace (they're out there), it still won't heat your room any better than the $299 model.
Electric Stoves Similar to the electric fireplace, an electric stove is a radiant, fan assisted space heater installed in a decorative housing. The most popular model by far with consumers is the Dimplex CS3311 compact electric stove.

You can continue to read the reviews for convection heaters, micathermic heaters and oil filled radiators at Sam's Guide to Small Heaters.

I am wanting to save on my electric bill?

Thatgirlfr

is turning my electric off at the breaker safe, and will that work?

Answer
Hi NO NO NO NO NO NO NO AND AGAIN NO. THE BREAKERS ARE DESIGNED TO CUT ALL POWER IF THERE IS A FAULT SOMEWHERE IN YOUR ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT SO DON' T KEEP SWITCHING THEM OFF. LIKE THE OTHER ANSWER SAYS THEY ARE NOT LIGHT SWITCHES. Here are some tips for saving money with electricity. When buying electrical Appliances the higher star rating the better. Turn Appliances off at the powerpoint like microwave, television, stereo etc, anything with the light on standby is still receiving a current thus using electricity, you do not need to unplug them. Stop all draughts around the house by fixing seals around windows and doors and anywhere else. Insulate your roof lining. Keep doors to unused rooms closed. Block up unused fireplaces safely if you don't use them. Choose the right heater for your needs. Replace old light globes with incandescent ones, turn off lights when not using(no brainer) use the sun instead of the dryer, spin clothes for maximum efficiency, don't overload washing machine, front loading washing machines are cheaper than top loaders to run, use cold water unless clothes soiled etc. Fridges keep them away from stoves, ovens and sunlight. Try setting the fridge and freezer to the lowest setting without compromising food quality or safety. Freezers - do not allow ice to build up as this reduces the air flow thus costing you more and making it work harder. Only wash dishes if dishwasher is full (I personally hate dishwashers). Microwaves are cheaper to run than conventional ovens using 70% less power. Change your shower head to water efficient, turn down you hot water temperature(this is a biggy), insulate pipes from hot water service, have shorter showers, switch off hot water is going away for a week or more, fix any drips on taps. If you can afford double glazing get it, buy decent curtains or drapes, if you have an airconditioner choose a lower settigng or only use it when absolutely necessary. My advice is to check with your local power authority they will have information about many ways to save money for free. Hope it helped

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How come my electric fireplace doesn't stay on?

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rainbow

My electric fireplace won't stay on, it turns on briefly then shuts down. The heating coils glow for about 30 seconds then their is a click and it they turn off. It won't work at all for about 5 minutes then I can turn it on and the same thing happens. It does not restart on its own. I did see a small spark in the coil area just before it shut down.

Can you please help me? What could be the problem

The Electric fireplace is attached to the wall

Answer
You most likely have a burned out resistor. They lose the ability to handle the load and have to be replaced.

is it cheaper to use electricty to have my wall heater on or to plug in a portable heater?

anonymity

It is so cold out and I am curious to know if it costs more to run my (not gas) wall heater or to purchase a portable heater. I really want to purchase one of the electric fireplaces that home depot sells, just wondering if it would help save my power bill.
Thank you
I am in Seattle

Answer
your wall heater should be more efficient than a plug in heater. The wall heater is most likely hooked to 240 volts which will use less energy to heat up a room than a plug in 120 volt heater. having insulated walls and attic and "newer" windows will keep the heat in. Check with your power company for windows or insulation, Most areas will pay for some of the work, depending on if your on low income or not. Good luck

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Can you share your advise to survive in a Winter snow storm without electricity?

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Parent_K

My home had power outage for the past 2 days. Without electricity, there is no heat, light and cannot cook food. The fireplace and chimney is not working either. Do you have any experience of this situation? What is the best way to survive? Please give me your tips and advise? I want to prepare for the next one.

Answer
We went a day without electricity this last storm.
FOOD:
I first have food and water for each person for 5 days. Stored away.
Include foods that can be heated with a single pan or pot. Or cooked in one pot or pan. Instant hot cereal, cold cereal, powder milk, tuna,crackers, oil for cooking, canned fruit, etc. I like to have special things like those disposable jiffy-pop popcorn pans, marshmallows to roast. I also make large batches of soup/stews/chili beans/stir-fry fixings; put one dinners worth into a zip lock freezer bag and keep in the freezer. These can be just heated up in your 'camp' burner dinner pan. If by March/April they haven't been needed I use them for dinners and make more in late Fall for the next winter. Also have food stored for the animals. Dog,cat,pig whatever. I have bags of pellets for the horses if they run out of hay.
FOOD SPOILAGE: The food in your fridge needs to be eaten first. I put milk and cheese in a large bowl with snow to keep them longer. Don't open the freezer unless you are pulling food for a meal. I use snow to pack the food and keep it from spoiling. I also use the rule- when in doubt throw it out. If you think something might me spoiled, don't eat it. I use snow to pretty much keep food cold.
COOKING: http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=5431B705&categoryid=2010I have a single burner that attaches to a propane bottle. (the kind you get for camping) I heat water for coffee/hot chocolate and can cook dinner in one pan.
CLEANING: I have two dishpans. Heat up water for washing and rinsing on your camp burner.
HYGENE: We have an electric water heater so when the power goes out I don't have hot water. I don't care for freezing cold showers so...Once a day scrub your body with a warm soapy wash cloth.
HEAT: Have an alternate source of heat. If you don't have wood and a fireplace, buy a camping heater that takes batteries. Have two sets of extra batteries. ( Never run it while you sleep)
WARM: Layers of clothing keep you warmer than just one warm jacket/coat. Have one pair of wool socks for each person. Wear a clean pair of cotton socks under the wool ones each day. Move....moving around warms up your body.
LIGHTING: I use old fashion kerosne lamps ( keep out of kids reach) I tape a small lighter to the side of the base so I don't have to search in the dark for something to light it withhttp://www.lehmans.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=683&i1Cat=669&i2Cat=683&i3Cat=0&i4Cat=0, If you don't like kerosne lanterns then you can buy camping lanterns, propane or battery powered.http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=5330-707&categoryid=31500
use self contained votive candles for the bathroom (10 stored for emergency), I have medium size fashlights that can be attatched to a rope to hang around my neck,(I like to have my hands free) PERSONAL: have medications, cold medicines, reading material, deck of cards, sanitary napkins, a journal, picture album, things YOU would like.
PAM: the spray- for your metal snow shovel. It keeps the snow from
sticking.
When you know a storm is coming or...it is past Thanksgiving check your supplies, get what you may need. Also apples, bananas, and oranges are great to pick up when a storm is coming. They don't have to be refridgerated.

Any suggestions how to start my fireplace that is neither gas or electric?

You Know W

We just bought a house and the fireplace is neither gas or electric. Do I just put wood in the fireplace and open the damper. This is the first house I ever owned with a fireplace. We live in Southern California and it only gets cold in the winter. But I just want to prepare myself. Don't want to burn the house down or smoke the house if you get my drift. Any suggestions how to start my fireplace that is neither gas or electric?

Answer
You would build a fire there just like anywhere else (ie: campfire). Start with rolled up paper or twigs and light that, when it's burning add medium sized pieces of wood, when that is burning well add a big log or two. The lighter stuff will burn up leaving the big logs smoldering for awhile. Make sure your damper is open when you do this! Also close your damper in the warmer months so that you don't leak a lot of air conditioned air to the outside.

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Is it better to keep the door open to a wood burning fire place or close the door.?

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Flow

My argument is to keep the door open, we are only trying to keep our living room warm. I get the concept that keep the door close heats the metal and warms throughout, but I live in new Zealand and if you don't know heating is non existent. anyways the goals is to heat only our leaving room which is blocked off with blankets. Some of us say keep the door open as it gives direct heat into the room, and other argue differently. Let me know IF you ACTUALLY know what is right! Pretty sure door open is best.
To add to the comment below, by heating the metal i mean that the fireplace is metal, and the assumption is by keeping the heat in, the metal chiminey going up through the house preserves the heat as well as the actual fireplace. My flatmates argue that this preserves heat, but in contrast I say the costs (aka amount of wood required to heat entire chimney) do not meet the benefits. It is a 7 bedroom uninsulated house (small for 7 bedrooms) therefore the goal is to at least keep the living room warm. We have looked up multiple things, and some say keeping the door open burns through wood much quicker, but we all have agreed there is more direct heat comes out when the door is open. So long story short which 1.) Creates more heat into the room once fire is going? 2) what is more efficient? and 3) what is better for our Cause which is that we want our living room warmest possible as it is winter here!

Answer
YIKES! It depends 100% on the age and design of the fireplace and how it was installed. There are essentially three types of solid-fuel fireplaces. Many more, but they may be grouped into three basic types:

a) The conventional wood-burning decorative fireplace installed in centrally heated houses to be used, but not to be depended upon for heat (first link below): This fireplace is designed to direct most of the heat and all of the smoke up the chimney. The smoke-shelf is designed to increase the draw and prevent any smoke at all from getting into the house. Further, the more efficiently it works the more air it takes *from inside the house* to function. At best, fireplaces of this design are energy neutral. Many are considerably energy negative. If you have a fireplace of this design and want it to heat **leave the doors CLOSED**. Only in that way will you get the benefit of radiated heat from the fire itself.

b) Solid-fuel burning heating fireplaces (may burn wood, bituminous coal, peat, lignite and in some cases anthracite - second link): These fireplaces are designed to exhaust fumes but direct heat into the room. As you can see, the firebox is slightly extended into the room, there is a ventilated back and an iron firebox to keep the fuel elevated. There is no smoke-shelf and ventilation is strictly by induction (draft). Starting a fire in these beasts is a trick, and if allowed go cold one must start over from scratch, but once going they are relatively efficient, about 30% of the heat generated comes into the room. These fireplaces were not normally installed with doors, but if you have one, leave them OPEN.

c) Modern sealed fireplaces or inserts (third and fourth links): These are pretty much late 20th century developments and may be anything from a purpose-built sealed heating fireplace that draws combustion air from the exterior and often have electric booster fans on them. These can be up to 60% efficient, some very recent units claim up to 80%, and some hybrids have catalytic converters on them for even more efficiency. Also not cheap. These are typically installed as complete units. Doors closed in these cases.

We have a Type C in our summer house that will keep 900 square feet quite toasty even at 20F on the outside. We have three Type As at our main house, and we run them for decorative reasons only as if all three are going (family occasions) the house will get quite cool quite quickly from the draw.

Last Bit of Lecture:

One perceives heat in three ways:

Conduction - touch something hot. This is pretty obvious.
Convection - stand in a stream of warm air and get warm. This is generally how central heat is perceived.
Radiation - stand in front of something very hot and feel the heat coming off it. This is primarily via infra-red radiation and how many passive electric heaters operate. And this is what you are feeling standing in front of a hot fire. BUT- BUT! the flue is still drawing smoke *AND* warm air from the rest of the house -meaning that you are warming yourself yet cooling the house. Local benefit, general negative.

Hope this helps.

Has anyone else experienced bad problems with KOA?

JD_in_FL

I have stayed at many KOAs in Florida and a few in Georgia and Tennessee. The ones not in Florida were excellent, for value, service, and attitude. Most of the ones in Florida so far seem to bite big time. I had one in Lake City that was "on a lake" (the lake was mostly dried up and had 8 foot weeds growing everywhere, couldn't see the water), one in St Augustine acted like a Russian boot camp and would only rent the paddle boats between 1 PM and 5 PM, if they felt like unlocking them: On our trip, they said they weren't for rent because they had a tour bus comming in. What? One in Orlando (Lake Wippoorwill) advertized one-room cabins, but they aren't cabins, "they are hard-shell tents", and one KOA in Mims, FL says wood fires are not allowed, not even in the BBQ pits because it is against State Law, when the real reason is so they can charge a $100 deposit plus a daily rental fee for a "portable fireplace". Other KOAs deliver firewood. Has anyone else experienced KOA problems?

Answer
I'm not sure where Lake Wippoorwill KOA is and I 'm from Orlando. If that's the one on US 192 next to Sams Club, I toured it for a review and found it unacceptible, mainly for lack of shade. We stayed in one of those wooden tents in Seffner, FL. My wife couldn't hold it through the night and had to use the trash can for a potty.

The problems you mention is one of the reasons I try to stay anywhere else than KOA. We traveled to Alaska and back, from Brooksville, Florida, last year and stayed in a few KOA's, most we will never stay in again. Ocala KOA was $50+ several years ago, for what? being with-in 90 miles of disney?

We found one in Souix City, SD that wasn't open yet they let us stay the night, very nice people. Farther up the road, in Wyoming, we couldn't get decent electric and left. On our way back one in Great Falls, Montana was $30 a night higher than any other campground around. Somewhere near Bismark, ND we stayed in one that was barely large enough for our 35' motorhome, no place for our towed.

We have seen those nickle & dime you to death campgrounds and they aren't just limited to KOA. You must really watch yourself out there.

We are in the planning stages of a return trip to Alaska for next year and you can bet there won't be any KOA's in our trip. We plan on a campground every five days on the way up. WalMart and Flying "J" fuel stops will be our campgrounds for this trip.

Good luck and happy camping.

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What is the best way to heat my house this winter?

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mcslain

I currently have oil heat, it sucks and the system is old. I already have gas for hot water, so I was thinking about going over to gas heat as well. Only gas heat isn't exactly cheap either and the cost of the installation is certainly a factor. Any suggestions on oil vs heat, or other options like a heat pump, etc etc. What is my best long term bet?

Answer
Fireplace efficiency ranges from -10 to +10%, not very good. With an insert it is better but it is a hassle. The price for oil did spike considerably for awhile but has come down quite a bit from the high. Natural gas is less expensive right now but rate increases are instore for most areas later this year and early next year. Historically oil has been less expensive than NG.

There are a few high efficiency heat pumps available now but cost to operate depends on your electric rate. Usually the best option is to stay with your current fuel and install a new higher efficiency furnace.

In addition it's a really good idea to identify all areas of heat loss in your house and seal them up. Less heat out of the house means less heat has to be put in.

Is it more economical to have the central heating or the gas fire on?

Ruby

Also, should i turn off the radiators in the rooms i dont use as much?
What temperature (degrees C) is the ideal temp to set it at?

Answer
Neither. :-) I don't know how electricity vs. gas breaks down in the UK, but in the US it's comparable. A gas fireplace has the same problem ALL fireplaces do, the heat goes up the flue. They're pretty, but inefficient as can be.

Plus burning gas puts a lot of humidity in the air, so you're adding cold dampness to the whole house.

You're best setting the central heating to a low number like 60 or 62 to keep the house livable, and using electric space heaters in the rooms you actually occupy.

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How do I convert my wood burning fireplace to gas burning?

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joyce w

Answer
If the firplace is fairly new there should be a "knock out" on either side of the interior. It should look like a circle that is partially ready to come out. Anyway, you can pop this out and feed your gas line through the hole. Make sure you use a fire rated seal to plug the rest of the hole. At this point you have a feed line that you can adapt to any number of gas log inserts that will connect to the line. You will also need an assesable shut off located either on the floof near the hearth or an electric igniter/shut off. All connections are available at any fireplace supply store. If there are no knock outs you will need to drill a hole for you feed line....make sure you verify how big the line should be in relation to how big your fireplace and flue is. I am making assumptions that your fireplace is an average size and is an insert and not a full masonry. If full masonry I would advise getting an experienced contractor to help guide you through the process. Hope this has helped you at least get started.

does a wood pellet stove produce more energy per pound of fuel than a conventional wood stove burning hardwood?

whotoblame

If not, what would be the point of buying a wood pellet stove over a conventional wood stove?

Answer
Where I used to live I had a pellet stove in the dining room and a woodburning insert in the fireplace in the living room. Each has its strengths and each has its weaknesses.

The amount of heat you get from a pellet stove will depend as much on the type of pellets you burn as anything else. Pellet quality differs alot and you should always buy "premium, low-ash" pellets. They will cost a little more, but you will get more heat from them. There is a BTU rating printed on bags of pellets so you can compare heat output. I lived in the High Sierra Nevadas at the time and I bought Golden Flame and then Bear Mountain brand pellets. My pellet stove was an old Earth Stove RP45 (I bought it in 1993). It was definitely low-tech compared to the stoves that are available now, it did have a blower assembly and a battery backup. I never had any problems with it and I liked it because I could load up the hopper and have heat for well over 24 hours with the stove set on low. The heat from a pellet stove is less intense than the heat from a wood burner, but it's longer lasting and more consistent. If you live in an area where there are power outages, you will need a battery backup or a generator -- the pellet stove will not work without electricity.

I stopped burning regular cord wood in the fireplace insert and started burning densified fuel logs (I bought mine from Bear Mountain Forest Products and they were like Presto logs on steroids). They look like huge pellets -- about 18 inches long and they weigh between 5 and 7.5 pounds each (you definitely don't want to drop one of them on your foot). The heat output from them was amazing and, if you have an airtight stove or insert, the logs will burn for eight hours or more depending on how you calibrate your stove. The instructions that come with the logs warn you not to put more than two of them in a stove at a time because they will generate so much heat they can crack the stove or the glass in the stove. There was less ash to clean out of the stove and the logs were cleaner than cord wood. The woodburner was nice when we had extended power outages (sometimes 3 days or more) and for times when it was especially cold (20 below zero was not uncommon).

Our winter heating season started in late September and ended in May. I used about two tons of pellets (100 40-lb bags) and a "unit" of the fuel logs (a unit is 270 logs shipped shrink-wrapped on a pallet). The last year I was there, I spent about $450.00 on pellets and fuel logs for the entire winter. It was definitely less expensive than electric heat or heat from propane (the only other alternatives available there).

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How to save on electric bill?

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Future Die

My husband and I moved into a house that is all electric. Our old house had gas heat. So far, we HATE electric heat! It doesn't heat the house very well at all. The temp at night has been in the 40's and the heat seems to always run!

We have shut off the vents in the upstairs, because no one is ever up there. The heat is set on 65. What else can we do to save on our electric bill?

Answer
Insulate your attic and basement

Maintain glazing in window panes and caulk around windows to prevent air leaks. Use weather stripping where needed.

Use the damper in your fireplace

Weatherstrip around doors.

Install insulated drapery on your windows. Open drapes in the morning to let the sun in. Close when the sun goes down to keep the warmth inside.

Unplug all electronic chargers when not in use.

Use Smart Strips on all electronic equipment. This is a multi outlet devise you plug a bunch of things into and turn the strip off to cut off the current to all those electronics that are drawing electricity even when not turned on.

Use a Smart Strip in your kitchen for your microwave and small appliances. Turn it off after every meal.

Change all light bulbs to Compact Florescent Lights.

Wash only full loads of clothing in cold water. Do several loads in a row so you take advantage of the warm dryer.

Take shorter showers.

Is your dryer vent air tight?

Are all storm windows down?

I turn my heat down to 60 degrees at night and sleep under a cozy down filled duvet. It is heavenly.

I turn my heat down to 60 degrees when I leave the house.

Watch television in the dark at night.

Moist air keeps a house warmer than dry air. Add humidity to your home in the winter time.

If you are using your oven tonight, bake the potatoes for tomorrow night's dinner. A toaster oven uses less electricity than a conventional oven and I am a convert since a friend cooked some really delicious meals in that toaster oven of his. I now believe in toaster ovens.

Do not be fooled into thinking you are saving money on your electricity bill if you run appliances in the evening. The fact of the matter is that, yes, electricity is being saved, but the savings is only for the electricity company. Your electric bill is one flat rate per usage and it does not change rates according to the time of day you use your electricity. This is a common misconception most people are lead to believe, when, in fact you pay the same rate morning, noon and night.
Yeah, it is wise to use appliances on off peak hours, but it saves you not one dime on your bill.

how much does it cost to have an electriction check the labels on the breakers in my house?

The Philos

the breakers in my basement are labeled wrong and are confusing how much will it cost to have an electrition see which breakers control what electric outlet or appliance?

Answer
You could probably do this yourself. I did when I purchased my last home. I simply turned on lights in every room, went down stairs and flipped one switch then checked which outlets and lights went out.
Before hiring anyone, I shop around for best price and try to get a feel for the company. Then I ask myself-what would it cost if I didn't have the work done? I once put off getting a new roof that I thought would last me one more winter...now I have a brand new fireplace, chimney, living room, bathroom wall, kitchen ceiling and roof :- /

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Is it more economical to have the central heating or the gas fire on?

best electric fireplaces uk image

Ruby

Also, should i turn off the radiators in the rooms i dont use as much?
What temperature (degrees C) is the ideal temp to set it at?

Answer
Neither. :-) I don't know how electricity vs. gas breaks down in the UK, but in the US it's comparable. A gas fireplace has the same problem ALL fireplaces do, the heat goes up the flue. They're pretty, but inefficient as can be.

Plus burning gas puts a lot of humidity in the air, so you're adding cold dampness to the whole house.

You're best setting the central heating to a low number like 60 or 62 to keep the house livable, and using electric space heaters in the rooms you actually occupy.

Survey: What kinds of stoves do you like best?

Spring

There are so many kinds of stoves we can use them as heaters in the winter. Which one is your favourite, wood stoves, multi-fuel stove, pellet stoves, gas stoves, electric stoves, boiler stoves, even bioethanol fireplaces?
Any answer will be appreciated!
It will be best if you also can offer your reason.

Answer
Wood stoves, multi-fuel stove, pellet stoves, gas stoves, electric stoves, boiler stoves, even bioethanol fireplaces,every stove has its different, primary advantage with other stoves.

For me, I love wood burning stoves. I have my own firewood and I usually cut the wood at the beginning of a year and when the winter comes, I can use the dry woods.

Why do you have this question, does it means that you want to buy a stove? But don't know which kind of stove to choose, does it? Lol...if you like to buy a stove, you maybe have a look in the http://www.astove.co.uk, the Christmas day is coming, you can also get the 5% discount codes. A great bargain.

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Selling a home that has a 500sf room addition w/o a heat source. What is a good inexpensive heat source?

electric fireplaces cheap image

Ro73

Thought about using an electric fireplace. Not sure if that will count as a sufficient heat source.

Answer
A fixed Electric baseboard with incorparated thermostat will be the cheapest solution. In that case you only have 1 wire to bring from breaker box.

if you do it youself that go under 200$ if you need 2500 watts or less. Dont forget to check you local electrical code before doing this yourself.

check the link to know how many watts you need.

PS.: dont forget that a non fixed heater like electric fireplace you buy at waltmart (or anywhere) cannot be considered as permanent heating source.

Any tips for lowering the cost of heating a home with oil heat, besides turning the heat down ;-D?

hmm

I am thinking for next winter about possibly using space heaters. Or even an electric fireplace which would be both pleasing to the eye and warm. I live in New England.
A wood stove! Why didn't I think of this before... I guess I had to post the question to realize the answer myself... ;-D

Answer
Don't forget the old standbys: insulation, air infiltration (does your local power company offer energy audits?), poor heat circulation within a room (are you heating the ceiling while your feet freeze?), more efficient windows and/or window films, insulated draperies or shutters closed at night, and the remarkably effective old camping standby that if your hands or feet are cold, put on a hat (up to 30% of body heat is lost through the head).

The very cheapest energy is that which you do not use.

One thing you do have to be careful of with a tighter and possibly cooler house: condensation on interior surfaces is a leading cause of mold. Air to air heat exchangers can increase air circulation while retaining heat.

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Is it more economical to have the central heating or the gas fire on?

electric fireplaces 60 image

Ruby

Also, should i turn off the radiators in the rooms i dont use as much?
What temperature (degrees C) is the ideal temp to set it at?

Answer
Neither. :-) I don't know how electricity vs. gas breaks down in the UK, but in the US it's comparable. A gas fireplace has the same problem ALL fireplaces do, the heat goes up the flue. They're pretty, but inefficient as can be.

Plus burning gas puts a lot of humidity in the air, so you're adding cold dampness to the whole house.

You're best setting the central heating to a low number like 60 or 62 to keep the house livable, and using electric space heaters in the rooms you actually occupy.

Is it better to keep the door open to a wood burning fire place or close the door.?

Flow

My argument is to keep the door open, we are only trying to keep our living room warm. I get the concept that keep the door close heats the metal and warms throughout, but I live in new Zealand and if you don't know heating is non existent. anyways the goals is to heat only our leaving room which is blocked off with blankets. Some of us say keep the door open as it gives direct heat into the room, and other argue differently. Let me know IF you ACTUALLY know what is right! Pretty sure door open is best.
To add to the comment below, by heating the metal i mean that the fireplace is metal, and the assumption is by keeping the heat in, the metal chiminey going up through the house preserves the heat as well as the actual fireplace. My flatmates argue that this preserves heat, but in contrast I say the costs (aka amount of wood required to heat entire chimney) do not meet the benefits. It is a 7 bedroom uninsulated house (small for 7 bedrooms) therefore the goal is to at least keep the living room warm. We have looked up multiple things, and some say keeping the door open burns through wood much quicker, but we all have agreed there is more direct heat comes out when the door is open. So long story short which 1.) Creates more heat into the room once fire is going? 2) what is more efficient? and 3) what is better for our Cause which is that we want our living room warmest possible as it is winter here!

Answer
YIKES! It depends 100% on the age and design of the fireplace and how it was installed. There are essentially three types of solid-fuel fireplaces. Many more, but they may be grouped into three basic types:

a) The conventional wood-burning decorative fireplace installed in centrally heated houses to be used, but not to be depended upon for heat (first link below): This fireplace is designed to direct most of the heat and all of the smoke up the chimney. The smoke-shelf is designed to increase the draw and prevent any smoke at all from getting into the house. Further, the more efficiently it works the more air it takes *from inside the house* to function. At best, fireplaces of this design are energy neutral. Many are considerably energy negative. If you have a fireplace of this design and want it to heat **leave the doors CLOSED**. Only in that way will you get the benefit of radiated heat from the fire itself.

b) Solid-fuel burning heating fireplaces (may burn wood, bituminous coal, peat, lignite and in some cases anthracite - second link): These fireplaces are designed to exhaust fumes but direct heat into the room. As you can see, the firebox is slightly extended into the room, there is a ventilated back and an iron firebox to keep the fuel elevated. There is no smoke-shelf and ventilation is strictly by induction (draft). Starting a fire in these beasts is a trick, and if allowed go cold one must start over from scratch, but once going they are relatively efficient, about 30% of the heat generated comes into the room. These fireplaces were not normally installed with doors, but if you have one, leave them OPEN.

c) Modern sealed fireplaces or inserts (third and fourth links): These are pretty much late 20th century developments and may be anything from a purpose-built sealed heating fireplace that draws combustion air from the exterior and often have electric booster fans on them. These can be up to 60% efficient, some very recent units claim up to 80%, and some hybrids have catalytic converters on them for even more efficiency. Also not cheap. These are typically installed as complete units. Doors closed in these cases.

We have a Type C in our summer house that will keep 900 square feet quite toasty even at 20F on the outside. We have three Type As at our main house, and we run them for decorative reasons only as if all three are going (family occasions) the house will get quite cool quite quickly from the draw.

Last Bit of Lecture:

One perceives heat in three ways:

Conduction - touch something hot. This is pretty obvious.
Convection - stand in a stream of warm air and get warm. This is generally how central heat is perceived.
Radiation - stand in front of something very hot and feel the heat coming off it. This is primarily via infra-red radiation and how many passive electric heaters operate. And this is what you are feeling standing in front of a hot fire. BUT- BUT! the flue is still drawing smoke *AND* warm air from the rest of the house -meaning that you are warming yourself yet cooling the house. Local benefit, general negative.

Hope this helps.

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Suggestions to save on electric bill?

electric fireplace 400 sq ft image

Brandee

Anyone will better understanding would be greatly appreciated; my husband and I live in a entirely electric (no gas) home, and I'm trying to find ways to cut down on our electric bill. We cannot, at this time, afford new appliances, and obviously we cannot unplug some of our appliances when not used (deep freezer, refrigerator). I try to limit the amount of laundry we do, but don't know some things- would it be more efficient to primarily use toaster oven and microwave vs. oven (of course, depending on amount of time), or turn off computer (I've been told it takes more power to stat and stop than let run idle), unplug small appliances (cable boxes and alarm clocks) that have a constant display time, etc...

We try to keep the temp at a regular not adjusting if possible (1200 sq. ft, 2 bed, but last month's bill of $400 is pushing our budget limits.
Any ideas?

Answer
Older model freezers use up LOTS of electricity.
Could you do away with the need for it and use your refrigerator's freezer?
That would save a lot.
Also, your computer should have a power-saving setting when not in use.
Small appliances like clocks and such don't really use that much power.
Your furnace and water heater use the most.
Try turning down the thermostats and bundling up.
If no one is home during the day for say, 8hrs, turn the furnace thermostat
all the way down,
but if your just going shopping or something,
just turn it down slightly.
Otherwise it will have to run longer to get the temperature back up to "comfortable."
Use your fireplace if you have one.
Also, check your insulation and weatherstripping around the house.
Thick drapes over your windows will keep a lot of the cold from coming in the house.
Best of luck.

how do you heat your house in winter?

Q. I am just curious as to how others are heating their house during the winter months. We are looking to reduce our propane bill it just seems that every option we choose ends up being about the same cost without investing $10,000 for geothermal (after rebates). We just installed a 91% efficient furnace last year so our furnace is good to go. We also have a free standing wood stove that we use on occasion. The wood stove is old and we don't trust it while we are sleeping or away for very long. Last year we used about 700 gallons LP and burned probably 1/2 cord of wood. We have a single level 1500 sq. ft. house. We were considering putting a pellet stove in but are unsure how many tons of pellets it would burn to determine if it would be worth it. We also though about installing some of the new ceiling fans that have the space heater in them, but they are $250 a pop and still cost a lot to operate. Just looking for some opinions and no, I don't want to hang blankets up or shut rooms off because we use all of them. Does anyone use a pellet stove? How much pellets do you burn? Do you like it? Thanks in advance!!!!!

Answer
We have a 3-story, 4,200 s.f. center-hall stucco-on-brick colonial built in 1890 with 46 windows and five glass (French) doors. We have hot-water radiators and burn natural gas to to heat, as well as we have three functional fire-places built with the house. Natural gas in the PECO service area is approximately $1.14/therm (100,000 BTU), about 43% cheaper than #2 fuel oil at this time. We moved into the house about 2.5 years ago, and when we moved in the existing heating system had been allowed to freeze, the boiler (400,000 BTU oil-burner) had failed and 17 of 34 radiators had also failed along with four of six risers. Yes, we knew this going in.

When we replaced the radiators, we installed thermostatic valves. We installed a 96% efficient gas-fired modulating condensing boiler (230,000 BTU) that also handled domestic hot water via a super-insulated low-loss storage tank. The total cost of the conversion and replacements including the registered master plumber to do the boiler install and the inspection and utility certification was just over $12,000 - I did 80% of the work myself. My plumber stated that if he had done the entire job, it would have cost just under $20,000. I believe him. But the payback against Oil is pretty fast at any price.

Our cost last year (Philadelphia region) for all energy for 12 full months was under $3,600, inclusive of heat, hot water, cooking (gas) drying (gas) and electricity. We do not have central AC, but we do have large window units on the first floor and smaller units in each bedroom, of which three are going at any one time, typically, in very hot weather. Under most conditions only the bedroom units are on and only when occupied. Large masonry houses neither get so not nor so cold as frame houses in weather extremes. We are on track in 2010 to be slightly lower than in 2009 overall. We heat to 58F when the house is empty (during the day) and 68F during the evenings and on weekends, or when we are home (vacation or days off). We use a "smart" thermostat with an outside air sensor that works with the boiler to have the house at-temperature when we want it to be, not just starting the system at that point. We are not fanatical about heating (or cooling) at all. We use the fireplaces (library, dining room and master bedroom) quite often in the winter - they draw well and permit good modulation - so we do feel that they are net-positive for energy. Many are not. If we run the fireplace in the bedroom with the door partially closed it does get warm pretty quickly.

The thermostatic radiator valves allow us to reduce heat in unoccupied rooms even when the rest of the house is warm - which results in large savings - yet have the convenience of just turning them up if needed. We have considered a pellet stove (we have an ideal location for one) and also fireplace inserts. The cost-benefit ratio is not quite there yet - based on our use and habits, we have calculated that when natural gas reaches about $2.00/therm they will be a worthwhile investment - as long as good burning wood (oak) remains at $125/full cord or less.

A 200,000 BTU (net) geothermal system will set us back in excess of $25,000 in our environment - that is simply not going to happen. The payback will be beyond our lifetime.

All our rooms but the four majors (library, dining room, living room and kitchen) have ceiling fans - and we use them pretty much all year. Up in the winter, down in the summer. We do have electric space heaters - basic ceramic plug-in portables - that we use here-and-there as needed. Spending $0.21/hour to make one or two people and/or two cats comfortable in one room is a bunch better than heating an entire house for $2.63/hour to the same temperature - although I repeat - we are not fanatical about heat - we just will not heat all 4,200 s.f. if there is only one of us at home during an odd time. So, calculate on that basis when you are considering alternate fuels or heat sources.

Other things we have done: Install tight storm doors (high-quality), repair windows, caulk cracks, insulate and install the correct vapor-barrier system in our crawl-spaces, use only high-quality energy-star appliances sized for our actual needs, move to CLF lamps for general use, water saving faucets and shower-heads and so on and so forth. Each and every little bit helps. No one item overly costly and nothing exotic or hard to maintain.

Good luck with it.

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How much would it cost to convert an attached (not used for many years) storefront into a studio apartment?

electric fireplaces in bathrooms image

Carol B

There is water and electrical and gas, but no heat. It is fairly cool in the summer because it is attached and has a wall to the walk-in basement of my house. The place is 100 years old. It is about 500 square feet. I have a bathroom outside the space in the basement portion. I'd want a kitchen, bed and living space and I have drawn it out. I'd like to make it modern and sleek with high-end appliances. This is Wisconsin, so I have to get it heated well.

Answer
You have a number of options for the heating, electric baseboard heaters, gas or electric fireplace. Another option is radiant heat in the floor (very efficient & comfortable) depending on your flooring.
You will need an electical outlet for every 6' of wall, generally, as well as lighting, appliances & communications. You may need to upgrade your electrical panel.
Your existing main drain will determine where you can put your plumbing. The main drain may need an upgrade as well, or you may need to add an additional one in order to handle 2 sinks, tub, toilet & possibly laundry.
Line up some estimates from electrical & plumbing & you will have a good idea what you're in for there.
How much structure will you need? Framing & drywall.
Paint & trim. Windows. Doors. Closets. Cabinets. Hardware. Fixtures. Lighting. Flooring. (new subfloor)
Outside finishes. With so little to go on, my guess is $15-30+ thousand plus appliances. You can save on labour by doing as much as you can yourself & calling on friends & family. Some creative shopping for fixtures & materials can save much more. Good luck with your project!
PS Design tip: If you have an internal bathroom (no window) install a transom window above the door to borrow light.

Is it possible to add a see-through fireplace in a wall between the tub and bedroom?

AV

My bathroom is small and no space is available to borrow from anywhere else. I want to remodel the bathroom where the bathtub (not sunken) is next to the wall that divides the bathroom and master bedroom. That dividing wall is where I want to put the fireplace. Is that possible? Since the tub is high, the fireplace will be at a high level on the bath side. But how does one raise the firebox level on the bedroom side?

Answer
you can but you may have to have some plumbing moved there are fire place options now and they can be placed just about anywhere but remember the wall will have the be quite deep to accommodate the venting. it sounds nice to place it there sounds as if it will also be at a nice height when your in bed too for space sake you may want to consider an electric fire box with a blower to give off warmth and ambiance without all the hassle and expense

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