electric fireplace quality image
Willster
Okay, I'm buying a house in one of the last economically healthy parts of North America. What important bits of maintenance (cleaning the furnace, for example) should I undertake every year, every two or three years and every 10 years, for example?
Answer
I hope you got a home inspection, whether brand-spanking new or previously owned, because too often things get overlooked. An inspector can also shed some light on maintenance for you.
Without knowing WHERE you live (miracle of healthy economy!) your climate as well as particulars of your house will make a difference. (If you have a flat roof, the maintenance issues are different from a pitched roof, for example.)
Generally speaking, whatever kind of HVAC (heating/cooling) system you have should receive maintenance at least annually. If you have a heat pump, once a year probably suffices as it's one unit. If you have an actual AC and a furnace, could be (like for me) that the AC is electric, the furnace is gas, so those are independent systems. I have the AC maintained regularly, haven't worried about the furnace, partly because AC has parts OUTDOORS and the furnace does not.
If you have a fireplace, it depends on how often you use it and what kind it is.
Depending on how handy you are, many maintainance things can be done by you. IF this is a new house, it comes with a limited warranty--you can grill the service people who come out to do the check you should have done while you're still covered by the builder (usually 2 years).
I'm always concerned about the roof--type (composition, tile, etc.) makes a huge difference--each kind has a lifetime expectancy--and you probably want to consider getting a pro to check it now and again after say 5 years for compostion or such, probably can go 15 at least for tile (and yes, tile roofs can break, leak, etc.). Should be able to get an inspection for free or limited cost if you shop around. I don't do heights, so that's a reason I have concerns about roofs always. Plus damage there is always expensive and usually you notice it in conjunction with a storm when EVERYONE else notices and no one can come out for weeks--or they just throw a tarp up for weeks.
Drain your water heater annually.
These are NOT maintenance issues, but I think they're important. I have a whole house water pressure regulator--you want good pressure but not so high that it damages anything in the house. Plumbing problems are hell. Just pay the $100-350 it could run and get one.
Whole house surge protectors--one that can handle lightning strikes is intelligent--again, similar price range and very smart.
If you live where the water is hard or such, consider something like a whole house water filtration system. Honeywell's site description:
"A Honeywell Whole-House Water Pre-Filtration System provides clean, clear water to your entire home. It filters incoming water as soon as it enters the home and automatically flushes dirt, sand, scale and rust down the drain. The result is clean, filtered water flowing from your faucets.
Honeywell uses the ultimate in water pre-filtration technology, including a unique reverse-rinsing system that safely flushes captured sediment and particles. The permanent, stainless steel filter eliminates the need for routine maintenance, as is required with typical sediment filters.
Removing sediment from your water will help protect your appliances, pipes and other plumbing infrastructure from scale and dirt build-up.
Key Features
No replacement filter costs. Permanent stainless steel filter.
Durable construction for long life. Solid brass fittings, durable plastic moldings.
Set it and forget it. Rinsing takes place automatically.
3-year warranty"
http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consumer/Cultures/en-US/Products/Water+Solutions/Water+Quality/Default.htm
I don't have one of those yet--was very hard for me to get this house (6 years ago, fixed mortgage, I've NEVER been late on a payment, so I did balance this right, but there were limits on what I could afford) so it didn't make the list.
BTW, most houses could use more insulation, especially in the attic. Use this to see what's recommended by DOE for YOUR zip:
http://www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html
This will help save you money on energy costs if you have a good level of insulation.
BTW, be VERY careful when planting or doing anything NEAR the house. The termite treatment to remain effective REQUIRES that the "band" NOT be broken. That would be about 36 inches out from your foundation. Frankly, if I had been able to prevent my father from planting things TOO CLOSE to the house, I'd feel better about things. I would measure out 40 inches from house and not plant in that area (you could do container gardening, etc. if you really had to have something that close to the house).
Also make sure that you have dirt or gravel or such up around your foundation (assuming a slab built home) for proper drainage. Too many people have dips along the foundation area and water (or snow) builds up there and you get foundational cracks, etc. If you get a lot of heavy rain or such, you should check that every few months, at least annually. Will save heart ache down the road.
Houses are way more expensive than people realize so tuck some funds away for the inevitable replacement of appliances and such. CONSIDER after your builder warranty is up (if you have a new home) getting a home warranty. I've had American Home Shield for 15 years and am glad I did--I've needed them at times. Remember you don't ever want to file a homeowner's claim if you can help it--premiums up, dumped, harder to sell house, etc.
Houses are NOT assets. They are liabilities. People need to "get" that. Robert Kiyosaki ("Rich Dad, Poor Dad") uses the SENSIBLE definition of an asset: anything that puts money in your pocket. A liability? Anything that takes money out of your pocket. He also gets what I've been arguing with real estate agents about for years: increased home values are a BAD thing. Your property tax goes up. Your homeowner's insurance goes up with increased value. "Equity" is worthless--the only way to realize it is (A) borrow against it--now there is more debt and finally people see housing values CAN and DO go down and (B) SELL the house. Now where are you going to live?
What most people CLAIM about housing is inaccurate, so don't let them keep telling you about how going into debt will increase the value of your home. Do what is necessary and affordable from people who GET what I just covered about ACCURATE definitions of assets and liabilities. Accounting is one thing, reality is another. (Remember, for tax purposes rental property depreciates, yet cash flow increases. The paper stuff doesn't always jibe with REALITY.)
ENJOY YOUR HOME!
I hope you got a home inspection, whether brand-spanking new or previously owned, because too often things get overlooked. An inspector can also shed some light on maintenance for you.
Without knowing WHERE you live (miracle of healthy economy!) your climate as well as particulars of your house will make a difference. (If you have a flat roof, the maintenance issues are different from a pitched roof, for example.)
Generally speaking, whatever kind of HVAC (heating/cooling) system you have should receive maintenance at least annually. If you have a heat pump, once a year probably suffices as it's one unit. If you have an actual AC and a furnace, could be (like for me) that the AC is electric, the furnace is gas, so those are independent systems. I have the AC maintained regularly, haven't worried about the furnace, partly because AC has parts OUTDOORS and the furnace does not.
If you have a fireplace, it depends on how often you use it and what kind it is.
Depending on how handy you are, many maintainance things can be done by you. IF this is a new house, it comes with a limited warranty--you can grill the service people who come out to do the check you should have done while you're still covered by the builder (usually 2 years).
I'm always concerned about the roof--type (composition, tile, etc.) makes a huge difference--each kind has a lifetime expectancy--and you probably want to consider getting a pro to check it now and again after say 5 years for compostion or such, probably can go 15 at least for tile (and yes, tile roofs can break, leak, etc.). Should be able to get an inspection for free or limited cost if you shop around. I don't do heights, so that's a reason I have concerns about roofs always. Plus damage there is always expensive and usually you notice it in conjunction with a storm when EVERYONE else notices and no one can come out for weeks--or they just throw a tarp up for weeks.
Drain your water heater annually.
These are NOT maintenance issues, but I think they're important. I have a whole house water pressure regulator--you want good pressure but not so high that it damages anything in the house. Plumbing problems are hell. Just pay the $100-350 it could run and get one.
Whole house surge protectors--one that can handle lightning strikes is intelligent--again, similar price range and very smart.
If you live where the water is hard or such, consider something like a whole house water filtration system. Honeywell's site description:
"A Honeywell Whole-House Water Pre-Filtration System provides clean, clear water to your entire home. It filters incoming water as soon as it enters the home and automatically flushes dirt, sand, scale and rust down the drain. The result is clean, filtered water flowing from your faucets.
Honeywell uses the ultimate in water pre-filtration technology, including a unique reverse-rinsing system that safely flushes captured sediment and particles. The permanent, stainless steel filter eliminates the need for routine maintenance, as is required with typical sediment filters.
Removing sediment from your water will help protect your appliances, pipes and other plumbing infrastructure from scale and dirt build-up.
Key Features
No replacement filter costs. Permanent stainless steel filter.
Durable construction for long life. Solid brass fittings, durable plastic moldings.
Set it and forget it. Rinsing takes place automatically.
3-year warranty"
http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consumer/Cultures/en-US/Products/Water+Solutions/Water+Quality/Default.htm
I don't have one of those yet--was very hard for me to get this house (6 years ago, fixed mortgage, I've NEVER been late on a payment, so I did balance this right, but there were limits on what I could afford) so it didn't make the list.
BTW, most houses could use more insulation, especially in the attic. Use this to see what's recommended by DOE for YOUR zip:
http://www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html
This will help save you money on energy costs if you have a good level of insulation.
BTW, be VERY careful when planting or doing anything NEAR the house. The termite treatment to remain effective REQUIRES that the "band" NOT be broken. That would be about 36 inches out from your foundation. Frankly, if I had been able to prevent my father from planting things TOO CLOSE to the house, I'd feel better about things. I would measure out 40 inches from house and not plant in that area (you could do container gardening, etc. if you really had to have something that close to the house).
Also make sure that you have dirt or gravel or such up around your foundation (assuming a slab built home) for proper drainage. Too many people have dips along the foundation area and water (or snow) builds up there and you get foundational cracks, etc. If you get a lot of heavy rain or such, you should check that every few months, at least annually. Will save heart ache down the road.
Houses are way more expensive than people realize so tuck some funds away for the inevitable replacement of appliances and such. CONSIDER after your builder warranty is up (if you have a new home) getting a home warranty. I've had American Home Shield for 15 years and am glad I did--I've needed them at times. Remember you don't ever want to file a homeowner's claim if you can help it--premiums up, dumped, harder to sell house, etc.
Houses are NOT assets. They are liabilities. People need to "get" that. Robert Kiyosaki ("Rich Dad, Poor Dad") uses the SENSIBLE definition of an asset: anything that puts money in your pocket. A liability? Anything that takes money out of your pocket. He also gets what I've been arguing with real estate agents about for years: increased home values are a BAD thing. Your property tax goes up. Your homeowner's insurance goes up with increased value. "Equity" is worthless--the only way to realize it is (A) borrow against it--now there is more debt and finally people see housing values CAN and DO go down and (B) SELL the house. Now where are you going to live?
What most people CLAIM about housing is inaccurate, so don't let them keep telling you about how going into debt will increase the value of your home. Do what is necessary and affordable from people who GET what I just covered about ACCURATE definitions of assets and liabilities. Accounting is one thing, reality is another. (Remember, for tax purposes rental property depreciates, yet cash flow increases. The paper stuff doesn't always jibe with REALITY.)
ENJOY YOUR HOME!
does a wood pellet stove produce more energy per pound of fuel than a conventional wood stove burning hardwood?
whotoblame
If not, what would be the point of buying a wood pellet stove over a conventional wood stove?
Answer
Where I used to live I had a pellet stove in the dining room and a woodburning insert in the fireplace in the living room. Each has its strengths and each has its weaknesses.
The amount of heat you get from a pellet stove will depend as much on the type of pellets you burn as anything else. Pellet quality differs alot and you should always buy "premium, low-ash" pellets. They will cost a little more, but you will get more heat from them. There is a BTU rating printed on bags of pellets so you can compare heat output. I lived in the High Sierra Nevadas at the time and I bought Golden Flame and then Bear Mountain brand pellets. My pellet stove was an old Earth Stove RP45 (I bought it in 1993). It was definitely low-tech compared to the stoves that are available now, it did have a blower assembly and a battery backup. I never had any problems with it and I liked it because I could load up the hopper and have heat for well over 24 hours with the stove set on low. The heat from a pellet stove is less intense than the heat from a wood burner, but it's longer lasting and more consistent. If you live in an area where there are power outages, you will need a battery backup or a generator -- the pellet stove will not work without electricity.
I stopped burning regular cord wood in the fireplace insert and started burning densified fuel logs (I bought mine from Bear Mountain Forest Products and they were like Presto logs on steroids). They look like huge pellets -- about 18 inches long and they weigh between 5 and 7.5 pounds each (you definitely don't want to drop one of them on your foot). The heat output from them was amazing and, if you have an airtight stove or insert, the logs will burn for eight hours or more depending on how you calibrate your stove. The instructions that come with the logs warn you not to put more than two of them in a stove at a time because they will generate so much heat they can crack the stove or the glass in the stove. There was less ash to clean out of the stove and the logs were cleaner than cord wood. The woodburner was nice when we had extended power outages (sometimes 3 days or more) and for times when it was especially cold (20 below zero was not uncommon).
Our winter heating season started in late September and ended in May. I used about two tons of pellets (100 40-lb bags) and a "unit" of the fuel logs (a unit is 270 logs shipped shrink-wrapped on a pallet). The last year I was there, I spent about $450.00 on pellets and fuel logs for the entire winter. It was definitely less expensive than electric heat or heat from propane (the only other alternatives available there).
Where I used to live I had a pellet stove in the dining room and a woodburning insert in the fireplace in the living room. Each has its strengths and each has its weaknesses.
The amount of heat you get from a pellet stove will depend as much on the type of pellets you burn as anything else. Pellet quality differs alot and you should always buy "premium, low-ash" pellets. They will cost a little more, but you will get more heat from them. There is a BTU rating printed on bags of pellets so you can compare heat output. I lived in the High Sierra Nevadas at the time and I bought Golden Flame and then Bear Mountain brand pellets. My pellet stove was an old Earth Stove RP45 (I bought it in 1993). It was definitely low-tech compared to the stoves that are available now, it did have a blower assembly and a battery backup. I never had any problems with it and I liked it because I could load up the hopper and have heat for well over 24 hours with the stove set on low. The heat from a pellet stove is less intense than the heat from a wood burner, but it's longer lasting and more consistent. If you live in an area where there are power outages, you will need a battery backup or a generator -- the pellet stove will not work without electricity.
I stopped burning regular cord wood in the fireplace insert and started burning densified fuel logs (I bought mine from Bear Mountain Forest Products and they were like Presto logs on steroids). They look like huge pellets -- about 18 inches long and they weigh between 5 and 7.5 pounds each (you definitely don't want to drop one of them on your foot). The heat output from them was amazing and, if you have an airtight stove or insert, the logs will burn for eight hours or more depending on how you calibrate your stove. The instructions that come with the logs warn you not to put more than two of them in a stove at a time because they will generate so much heat they can crack the stove or the glass in the stove. There was less ash to clean out of the stove and the logs were cleaner than cord wood. The woodburner was nice when we had extended power outages (sometimes 3 days or more) and for times when it was especially cold (20 below zero was not uncommon).
Our winter heating season started in late September and ended in May. I used about two tons of pellets (100 40-lb bags) and a "unit" of the fuel logs (a unit is 270 logs shipped shrink-wrapped on a pallet). The last year I was there, I spent about $450.00 on pellets and fuel logs for the entire winter. It was definitely less expensive than electric heat or heat from propane (the only other alternatives available there).
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