Romeo
I have three questions regarding electric heaters.
1 - Is there a difference between electric heater and radiant heater ?
when i think of electric heater, this is what i mean - >
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| http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00dMoQBajslkGO/Electric-Heater-OC-2000-SF-.jpg |
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When i think of radiant heater, this is what i mean - >
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| http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/177994_lg.jpg |
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2 - Are electric/radiant heaters quieter than fan-heaters ?
3 - Does electric/radiant heaters use more electricity than fan-heaters and air-conditioner ?
(if so, how much more do they use ? Would it be much more expensive or a little bit more expensive ?)
Thank you.
Answer
Short answer: nearly all "room size" plug-in electric heaters here in the US consume 1500 watts @ 110 volts. Built-in electric heat (such as baseboard or in-wall) as well as a electric central heat are 220 volt and more economical to operate (typically rated at 5000, 10000 or more watts).
Tedious detail: "radiant" heaters supposedly radiate their heat to warm objects in the room rather than heating the air . . . . . while a "convection" type heats the air in the room. Most convection types are fan forced (central hot-air heating is convection heat . . . . . central hot-water heating is radiant heat).
Radiant heat can be a steadier heat - while convection heat can be spotty (ie you feel warmer when it is running with a fan on/cooler when off) ........... but fan boosted heat can warm a room faster than a radiator.
A plug-in electric space heater can be either pure radiant heat (you're looking at the heating element which usually has a reflector behind it to "radiate" the heat in the right direction) . . . . .or it can be fan-boosted convection type . . . . . and most often a combination.
Old plug-in heaters of the 30s & 40s were usually 100% radiant and used metal heating coils, like a light bulb or stove burner. Many newer ones use quartz tubes instead of metal coils - that appears to be what is shown in both of your photos. Quartz tubes have an advantage of heating-up quickly - - so quickly that they can actually "pulse" on-and-off producing a uniform heat while using less electricity. The downside is that the quartz tubes burn-out and need replacing from time-to-time. The popular "Edenpure" type heaters are really quartz tube heaters enclosed in a cabinet - the quartz tubes in the Edenpure cycle on-and-off, but radiate their heat to a copper plate which releases it in a uniform flow.
If you have access to Consumer Reports or their Annual Buying Guide: CR periodically tests space heaters. They generally don't think that the "Edenpure" or "Amish Fireplace" style heaters are worth the expense. They eliminated some makes & models from consideration for safety reasons. We bought the "low profile" unit made by Honeywell that they've recommended for a couple years: it uses an electric strip heating element and can be used with-or-without the enclosed fan - the idea is to use the fan to quickly heat a cold room, then use without fan for a quiet, uniform heat. We're very satisfied.
You mentioned an air-conditioner - - - - a "heat pump" is just a reversible air-conditioner. Very convenient source of heat - if you are in a temperate climate, but not very efficient in a cold climate where winter temps stay below about 45 degrees F . . . . in fact, most heat-pump installations have electric resistance heat as a back-up.
Short answer: nearly all "room size" plug-in electric heaters here in the US consume 1500 watts @ 110 volts. Built-in electric heat (such as baseboard or in-wall) as well as a electric central heat are 220 volt and more economical to operate (typically rated at 5000, 10000 or more watts).
Tedious detail: "radiant" heaters supposedly radiate their heat to warm objects in the room rather than heating the air . . . . . while a "convection" type heats the air in the room. Most convection types are fan forced (central hot-air heating is convection heat . . . . . central hot-water heating is radiant heat).
Radiant heat can be a steadier heat - while convection heat can be spotty (ie you feel warmer when it is running with a fan on/cooler when off) ........... but fan boosted heat can warm a room faster than a radiator.
A plug-in electric space heater can be either pure radiant heat (you're looking at the heating element which usually has a reflector behind it to "radiate" the heat in the right direction) . . . . .or it can be fan-boosted convection type . . . . . and most often a combination.
Old plug-in heaters of the 30s & 40s were usually 100% radiant and used metal heating coils, like a light bulb or stove burner. Many newer ones use quartz tubes instead of metal coils - that appears to be what is shown in both of your photos. Quartz tubes have an advantage of heating-up quickly - - so quickly that they can actually "pulse" on-and-off producing a uniform heat while using less electricity. The downside is that the quartz tubes burn-out and need replacing from time-to-time. The popular "Edenpure" type heaters are really quartz tube heaters enclosed in a cabinet - the quartz tubes in the Edenpure cycle on-and-off, but radiate their heat to a copper plate which releases it in a uniform flow.
If you have access to Consumer Reports or their Annual Buying Guide: CR periodically tests space heaters. They generally don't think that the "Edenpure" or "Amish Fireplace" style heaters are worth the expense. They eliminated some makes & models from consideration for safety reasons. We bought the "low profile" unit made by Honeywell that they've recommended for a couple years: it uses an electric strip heating element and can be used with-or-without the enclosed fan - the idea is to use the fan to quickly heat a cold room, then use without fan for a quiet, uniform heat. We're very satisfied.
You mentioned an air-conditioner - - - - a "heat pump" is just a reversible air-conditioner. Very convenient source of heat - if you are in a temperate climate, but not very efficient in a cold climate where winter temps stay below about 45 degrees F . . . . in fact, most heat-pump installations have electric resistance heat as a back-up.
Best way to heat my house?
Meagan P
As the cold came so Quickly this year i was forced to put my heaters on early, my house is 100% electric, during the winter months our electric is averaging $500/ month during the cold months. $225/mo during spring and fall when no home heating or cooling is needed and about $300/mo during the summer with Energy star window AC's on. My house is about 30 years old with poor ventilation, crappy doors but Good new widows and roof. The heaters are probably as old as the house too. We rent so any major home improvement is out of the Question, I have been thinking about purchasing a fireplace to help take some of the Burden of the electric bill, but im wondering would it even make a difference? i could use the fireplace to heat about 1/2 of my house (kitchen and living room, hallway and bathroom) and use the baseboard heaters for the rest the house (the 3 bedrooms) so i guess my question(s) would be:
Would a portable Fireplace help or hurt the electric bill?
What kind of Fireplace would be better?
i know electric and Propane would be basically my only options since i don't have natural Gas hookup and no chimney for wood burning.
And we are only 9mo into a 2 year lease breaking the lease would cost us upward of 5k so moving is not an option either (looked into it already)
or is there some kind of other fireplace that would heat my home? i see alot about Gel Fireplaces but cant find much info on them
Answer
Has this house got any insulation in the ceilings at all? Our other home was built in 1974 and was total electric. We never had any heat bills in the years we lived there that were as high as yours seem to be. We had a heat bill of just over $200 one time after 20 days of temperatures that never went above freezing during the day! We had 220 volt baseboard heat too. We used a 23,000 btu kerosene heater on occasion when the power was off, that heated the whole house. We had about 1,500 square feet. Unless there is a basement or crawl space under this house, natural gas or propane aren't an option because you need a furnace with duct work to each room to carry the heated air. There are some natural gas and propane radiant heaters that can be hung on outside walls. You'd have to check the fire code on these. An outside wall location may not heat the space required. the landlord would have to be involved with this because holes are required in the outside wall to run the gas line through. I hesitate too suggest a kerosene heater because they can cause a house fire if not used properly! Ask your landlord about the attic insulation. Is there any at all? How many inches? If insufficient attic insulation, would he have more put in? Make sure you turn the heat down to about 55 degrees in rooms not used during the day. Turn the heat up to 68 degrees when the rooms are occupied. Make sure the baseboard heaters are free of dust so they're more efficient. I would suggest that if you have a friend who's an electrician, that they check this house to see if there's a problem with the electric circuit. The month electric bills sound way to high for these modern times! Also, check to make sure the electric company is charging you the correct kilowatt per hour rate. You should have a different ( lower ) rate for a totally electric home. Hope you find an answer for these high electric bills.
Has this house got any insulation in the ceilings at all? Our other home was built in 1974 and was total electric. We never had any heat bills in the years we lived there that were as high as yours seem to be. We had a heat bill of just over $200 one time after 20 days of temperatures that never went above freezing during the day! We had 220 volt baseboard heat too. We used a 23,000 btu kerosene heater on occasion when the power was off, that heated the whole house. We had about 1,500 square feet. Unless there is a basement or crawl space under this house, natural gas or propane aren't an option because you need a furnace with duct work to each room to carry the heated air. There are some natural gas and propane radiant heaters that can be hung on outside walls. You'd have to check the fire code on these. An outside wall location may not heat the space required. the landlord would have to be involved with this because holes are required in the outside wall to run the gas line through. I hesitate too suggest a kerosene heater because they can cause a house fire if not used properly! Ask your landlord about the attic insulation. Is there any at all? How many inches? If insufficient attic insulation, would he have more put in? Make sure you turn the heat down to about 55 degrees in rooms not used during the day. Turn the heat up to 68 degrees when the rooms are occupied. Make sure the baseboard heaters are free of dust so they're more efficient. I would suggest that if you have a friend who's an electrician, that they check this house to see if there's a problem with the electric circuit. The month electric bills sound way to high for these modern times! Also, check to make sure the electric company is charging you the correct kilowatt per hour rate. You should have a different ( lower ) rate for a totally electric home. Hope you find an answer for these high electric bills.
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